La Masseria

The wine list at La Masseria lands like a declaration of intent — this is a room that takes Italian wine seriously. Flip past the first page and you're already face-to-face with Giacomo Conterno and Biondi-Santi, which tells you everything you need to know. It's the kind of list that makes you want to cancel your plans for the rest of the evening.

The cellar is built around Piedmont and Tuscany, and it's executed with conviction — Barolo from Conterno, Giacosa, and Gaja sitting alongside Barbaresco from Produttori del Barbaresco and Angelo Gaja is not an accident, that's a curated point of view. Tuscany holds its own with Sassicaia, Tignanello, and Brunello from both Biondi-Santi and Casanova di Neri. Dal Forno Romano's Amarone shows up as a nod to Veneto depth, and the Barolo Riserva lineup from Vietti and Ceretto adds vertical ambition. The gaps are real — if you want serious French or New World representation, you'll come up short — but within its lane, this list earns its Wine Spectator Best of Award of Excellence without question.

With 20 to 35 options by the glass, La Masseria is more generous than most Italian spots operating at this level. The pours lean Italian throughout, which is exactly right for this room. We'd want to know how frequently the glass list rotates, but at this size there should be something compelling open on any given night.