La Bistecca Italian Grille

Three hundred and fifty labels at an Italian steakhouse in Plymouth, Michigan — that gets our attention fast. The list leans hard into Tuscany and Piedmont, which is exactly right for a room that smells like butter and sounds like Sinatra. The vibe says white tablecloths and serious wine; the pricing says they know it.

The Italian backbone here is genuinely impressive for suburban Detroit — Tuscan and Piedmontese producers anchoring a list that has real depth, not just Chianti and a Barolo they found at Costco. The presence of Mischief & Mayhem's Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru signals someone behind the list has taste and ambition; that's a serious Burgundy that has no business sitting next to a bread basket in Plymouth, and we mean that as a compliment. The California section pulls in names like Belle Glos Meiomi Pinot Noir, which is crowd-pleasing but a little safe given how interesting the rest of the list can get. There are gaps in the by-the-glass program that keep this from being a true destination list, but the bottle selection rewards anyone willing to dig.

By-the-glass details are thin on the ground here — the restaurant doesn't make it easy to know what's available without sitting down and asking. That's a minor frustration when the bottle list is this deep. If the pours rotate with any thoughtfulness, there's potential; if they're just defaulting to Santa Margherita and a house red, that's a miss the kitchen doesn't deserve.