Vienna Came to NoMad and Brought Riesling
NoMad · New York · Contemporary French with Austrian influences · Visit Website ↗
Reviewed by the RagingWine Tasting Desk · March 23, 2026
RagingWine reviewed Koloman’s wine list and gave it The Wild Card — RagingWine’s Vibe-Check rating. How RagingWine reviews wine lists →
Wingman Metrics
You walk into what looks like a Viennese café designed by someone who actually read art history, and then the wine list lands on your marble table like a quiet flex. It's not trying to be a steakhouse megalist — it's focused, deliberate, and built around regions most New York restaurants treat as afterthoughts. Austria, Alsace, Germany, Burgundy: this is a list with a point of view.
The 150-to-250-bottle range skews heavily toward Central Europe and the Alsace corridor, which makes complete sense given the kitchen's Austrian-French DNA. Domaine Weinbach anchors the Alsace section with the kind of Riesling credibility most lists only dream about, while Emmerich Knoll's Grüner Veltliner represents exactly the sort of serious Austrian producer that belongs here. Willi Opitz appearing on the list is a genuine signal — that's not a name you stock because a distributor pushed it; someone sought that out. Burgundy fills in the gaps without taking over the room, keeping the list honest rather than trophy-hunting.
With 12 to 20 options by the glass, Koloman isn't just pouring the safe stuff — you can reasonably expect Austrian whites and something from Alsace to show up in rotation alongside the obligatory French crowd-pleasers. The Kolfok All Universe Together from Burgenland clocks in at $19 a glass, which for a natural-leaning Austrian red is actually a fair pour in this city. Glass program reflects the list's identity rather than abandoning it for pinot grigio and cab.
Kolfok All Universe Together Burgenland Austria 2022 — $19
Retails around $30, so the by-the-glass markup is genuinely reasonable for Manhattan. You're getting a funky, food-friendly Burgenland red that fits the menu and doesn't sting on the credit card.
Willi Opitz
Most diners at Koloman are going to gravitate toward the Knoll or something French, but Willi Opitz is a cult Austrian producer with a real following among people who know. If it's on the list, it's worth asking the staff what's currently poured — these wines are low-production and rarely appear on New York wine lists.
Burgundy selections
The Burgundy section here feels like the obligatory add to keep non-Austrian tables happy, and the markups on recognizable Burgundy names tend to climb fast at restaurants in this price bracket. The kitchen isn't cooking for Burgundy — it's cooking for Grüner and Riesling. Order accordingly.
Emmerich Knoll Grüner Veltliner + Seared brook trout
Knoll's Grüner has that white pepper snap and mineral tension that cuts through the richness of seared fish without drowning it. It's essentially the Austrian answer to a perfect fish pairing, and the kitchen clearly built the menu knowing wines like this would be on the table.
The Bottom Line
Koloman is the rare New York restaurant where the wine list actually matches what's happening on the plate — if you're eating Austrian-inflected food and drinking Grüner Veltliner or Alsatian Riesling, you're doing exactly what this place was designed for. Send your wine-curious friends here without hesitation.
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Plays It Safe
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