Koloman

You walk into what looks like a Viennese café designed by someone who actually read art history, and then the wine list lands on your marble table like a quiet flex. It's not trying to be a steakhouse megalist — it's focused, deliberate, and built around regions most New York restaurants treat as afterthoughts. Austria, Alsace, Germany, Burgundy: this is a list with a point of view.

The 150-to-250-bottle range skews heavily toward Central Europe and the Alsace corridor, which makes complete sense given the kitchen's Austrian-French DNA. Domaine Weinbach anchors the Alsace section with the kind of Riesling credibility most lists only dream about, while Emmerich Knoll's Grüner Veltliner represents exactly the sort of serious Austrian producer that belongs here. Willi Opitz appearing on the list is a genuine signal — that's not a name you stock because a distributor pushed it; someone sought that out. Burgundy fills in the gaps without taking over the room, keeping the list honest rather than trophy-hunting.

With 12 to 20 options by the glass, Koloman isn't just pouring the safe stuff — you can reasonably expect Austrian whites and something from Alsace to show up in rotation alongside the obligatory French crowd-pleasers. The Kolfok All Universe Together from Burgenland clocks in at $19 a glass, which for a natural-leaning Austrian red is actually a fair pour in this city. Glass program reflects the list's identity rather than abandoning it for pinot grigio and cab.