Hop Alley
Old World Bottles Meet Sichuan Heat
RiNo · Denver · Modern Chinese · Visit Website ↗
Reviewed March 14, 2026
Wingman Metrics
First Impression
A 60-80 bottle list at a modern Chinese spot already signals ambition, but Hop Alley's deep bench of German Riesling and Loire Valley whites makes it clear: someone here actually thinks about wine with Sichuan peppercorns. The list skews European and acid-driven, exactly what you want when bone marrow fried rice hits the table.
Selection Deep Dive
This is a Mosel lover's playground tucked into an industrial-chic RiNo space. You've got serious German producers like Peter Lauer and Ulli Stein alongside Loire stalwarts and clean Italian expressions from Foradori. The focus is tight: high-acid, mineral-driven whites and light, juicy reds that can stand up to chili oil without getting steamrolled. France dominates the bottle count with strong showings from Beaujolais, Loire, and Rhône, while Italy and Spain fill out the edges. No California crowd-pleasers here—this list commits to a point of view and sticks with it.
By the Glass
Ten-plus glass pours in the $10-13 range is solid accessibility for a list this considered. You'll find legitimate producers like Hauts-Baigneux Chenin Blanc and Ulli Stein Riesling available by the glass, not just the house plonk. The by-the-glass program rotates seasonally but doesn't chase weekly specials, which keeps things consistent but not exactly thrilling.
Eva Fricke 'Verde' Rheingau Riesling '18 — $52
73% markup on a killer natural Rheingau Riesling that retails for $30—practically charitable by this list's standards, and the minerality cuts through anything on the menu
Ventisei Toscana Rosso Sangiovese '17
Everyone gravitates toward the German and French bottles, but this bright Tuscan red has the acidity and structure to handle spicy charred cabbage without breaking a sweat
Rondeau Bugey '16
155% markup on a $22 retail bottle is the kind of gouge that makes you question the whole program—plenty of better values on this list
Peter Lauer 'Barrel X' Riesling Mosel '18 + Bone marrow fried rice
The slate-driven minerality and razor-sharp acidity of this Mosel Riesling slices through the richness of bone marrow like it was designed for the job
🎲 The Bottom Line
Hop Alley proves modern Chinese cooking deserves a wine list with actual vision. The markups sting, but the selection surprises—worth it if you're willing to pay for curation.
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