Eight Hundred Bottles Deep, No Apologies
Flatiron · New York · Contemporary American · Visit Website ↗
Updated April 2026
Reviewed March 25, 2026
Wingman Metrics
Eight hundred SKUs walk into a room — and somehow it doesn't feel overwhelming. The list at Gramercy Tavern hits with quiet authority: no gimmicks, no novelty grabs, just serious wine organized by people who actually think about it. Wine director Chris Raftery has built something that rewards both the obsessive and the casually curious.
Burgundy is the spine of this list — Raveneau's Montée de Tonnerre and Marquis d'Angerville's Volnay Champans are not wines you stumble onto at most New York restaurants, and their presence here signals a program that shops with intention. Aged Napa, Willamette Valley Pinot, Finger Lakes producers, and a Madeira section that most restaurants wouldn't even attempt round out a list that genuinely covers ground. Bartolo Mascarello Barolo showing up tells you they're not just chasing trends. The gaps are minor — if you're hunting deep Rhône or Southern Italian, you may have to look harder — but this is a rare list where curiosity gets rewarded in almost every direction.
Twenty-eight pours by the glass is a serious commitment, running $10 to $38, and the range doesn't feel padded with filler bottles. The Château d'Yquem 2002 at $50 a glass is its own category — absurd in the best way, and a flex move that few restaurants could pull off credibly. A Chianti Classico on the list at $89 a bottle anchors the more approachable end without embarrassing anyone.
Chianti Classico — $89/bottle
In a list that reaches into four-figure Burgundy territory, a well-chosen Chianti Classico at this price is the smart order — food-friendly, honest, and won't make your credit card wince.
Finger Lakes selections
Most tables here are gunning for Burgundy or aged Napa, which means the Finger Lakes pours get overlooked — and that's a mistake. Raftery has spoken publicly about championing this region, and bottles from here are some of the most interesting, terroir-driven wines on a list full of heavy hitters.
Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
Oregon Pinot is having a moment, which means markups have followed the hype. With Marquis d'Angerville Volnay Champans on the same list, the Willamette pour feels like a safe default that costs nearly as much as something far more compelling — spend a little more or go a different direction entirely.
Marquis d'Angerville Volnay Champans + Hanger Steak
Volnay's signature finesse and bright red fruit cut right through the char and iron of a wood-grilled hanger steak without either one bullying the other — this is exactly the kind of pairing that makes a Rager-level list worth the investment.
🔥 The Bottom Line
Gramercy Tavern is one of the few restaurants in New York where the wine list is as considered as the food — and yes, the markups are New York steep, but you're getting access to bottles and knowledge that justify the premium. Send every wine-curious friend here without hesitation.
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The Russian Tea Room treats wine as an afterthought dressed up in Champagne flutes — five famous labels at punishing prices with no range, no by-the-glass program, and no apparent curiosity about wine beyond what looks impressive on a table. Go for the spectacle, order the caviar, but don't come here expecting a wine list.
Grocery Store
Gouge
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
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David Burke Tavern's list is a Chardonnay lover's comfort zone with a solid sparkling section propping up the top — but the narrow focus and steep pricing mean you're paying for familiarity, not discovery. Send a friend here if they want California whites and a glass of Champagne; send them somewhere else if they want to explore.
Plays It Safe
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
· New York · Restaurant
Corima's wine list is proof that ten well-chosen bottles beat a hundred thoughtless ones every time. If you care about what's in your glass, this place is worth your attention.
Small but Thoughtful
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
West Village · New York · American
Cecchi's is first and foremost a bar, but the wine list is more serious than the neon and noise suggest. Steep markups are the main ding — but if you know what to order, there's real pleasure here.
Solid Range
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Knowledgeable & Friendly
Set & Forget
Acceptable
SoHo · New York · Steak House, Small Plates
The Corner Store is a reliable, well-credentialed wine list doing exactly what a good SoHo steakhouse should — France and California, done with intention, in a room that makes you want to order another bottle. Just watch the markup on the big Bordeaux names and let the Rhône or Burgundy side show you a better time.
Solid Range
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Proper
Tribeca · New York · American
Farra is punching above its weight class for a neighborhood wine bar, and the Wine Spectator nod is earned — just know that the serious bottles come with serious prices, and the no-sommelier setup means you're doing some of the navigating yourself. Worth it for anyone who knows what they want; potentially overwhelming for those who don't.
Small but Thoughtful
Steep
Varietal Specific
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Proper
· Atlanta · Contemporary American
By George is a fine place to drink wine if you know what you're walking into — a curated-but-safe list built for a stylish crowd that wants rosé and bubbles without friction. Come for the Crémant and the Tavel; don't expect to find anything that'll make you rethink your relationship with wine.
Plays It Safe
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
La Jolla · Chula Vista · Contemporary American
Nine-Ten is a genuinely good restaurant with a competent wine program — the sommelier is present, the list is legitimate, and the setting earns the price of admission. But the markups are aggressive enough that you'll want to be selective, because this list can eat your wallet if you reach for the obvious names.
Solid Range
Steep
Varietal Specific
Knowledgeable & Friendly
Set & Forget
Proper
Downtown · Winston Salem · Contemporary American
Sir Winston is the rare hotel restaurant that makes a real effort on wine, and for Winston-Salem, that counts for a lot. Pricing runs steep enough that you'll feel it by the second bottle, but the selection earns at least one visit from anyone who takes wine seriously.
Solid Range
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
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