Estela

Six hundred and forty-one bottles. That's not a wine list — that's a statement of intent. Estela's list hits you like a dense, well-organized library where someone has actually read every book on the shelf. This is the kind of program that makes you want to cancel your dinner plans and just sit at the bar working through it page by page.

France anchors the list, as it should, but there's genuine range across Old World Europe and thoughtful New World representation that doesn't feel like an afterthought. The presence of André Beaufort's Demi-Sec Champagne — a grower producer that most restaurants wouldn't touch for fear of confusing their guests — signals that whoever built this list is playing for the curious drinker, not the safe one. The Rare Wine Company Boston Bual Madeira is the kind of inclusion that earns credibility: Madeira is chronically underserved at restaurants, and putting it on the list at all shows range and intellectual honesty. The price ceiling of $7,000 tells you there's serious cellar depth, but the floor at $65 means you don't need to be a hedge fund manager to participate.

By-the-glass specifics weren't available to us at time of review, but with a list this size and a sommelier on staff, expect a rotating selection that punches above the usual suspects. At a place like this, ask your server what's open — you'll likely get something more interesting than what's printed.