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🎲The Wild Card

Death & Taxes

Smoke, Fire, and Wines You Won't Expect

Downtown · Raleigh · Wood-Fired American · Visit Website ↗

natural-wineorange-winedate-nightcasual-vibes

Reviewed March 17, 2026

Wingman Metrics

List VarietySmall but Thoughtful
MarkupSteep
GlasswareBasic Stemmed
StaffWilling but Green
Specials & DealsSet & Forget
Storage & TempAcceptable

First Impression

You walk into a downtown Raleigh room built around fire and smoke, and then the wine list hands you a Schiava from Alto Adige and an orange Chardonnay from Mendoza. That disconnect is exactly what makes this place interesting. Ashley Christensen's team clearly has opinions, and they're not keeping them to themselves.

Selection Deep Dive

The list skews natural-wine-adjacent without going full hipster farmer co-op — there's a Loire Cab Franc rosé from Guiberteau sitting next to a Novelty Hill Viognier from Washington's Columbia Valley, which tells you these folks are mixing Old World instincts with genuine American curiosity. France and Italy anchor the list, but the real character comes from the outliers: a Carignan-Valdigue blend from Mendocino, a Grillo from Sicily, and that Santa Julia orange Chardonnay from Argentina that most restaurants wouldn't touch. The gaps show — no dedicated Burgundy reds, thin on Spain, and the bottle list depth remains a question mark. But for a hearth-focused restaurant, the wine program punches well above the expected.

By the Glass

Fourteen options by the glass is genuinely generous, and the range covers sparkling, orange, rosé, white, and red without padding the list with filler. The Beaujolais Nouveau from Chermette and the Muscadet from Louis Métaireau both feel like active, deliberate choices rather than afterthoughts. What we don't know is how often the list rotates — and at these price points, that matters.

đź’°Best Value

Louis Métaireau Melon de Bourgogne (Muscadet, France 2023) — Unknown

Muscadet at a wood-fire restaurant is a quiet masterstroke — bright acidity, saline edge, and enough structure to cut through charred anything. Métaireau is a reliable name in the appellation, and if this is priced anywhere near fair, it's the most food-friendly glass on the list.

đź’ŽHidden Gem

Cantina Tramin Schiava (Alto Adige, Italy 2023)

Nobody orders Schiava. It's pale, light, and slightly floral — basically the anti-Cabernet — but it's exactly what you want with smoky, slightly fatty wood-fired meat. Most diners skip right past it for something they recognize, which means there's more for the rest of us.

â›”Skip This

Brea 'Margarita Vineyard' Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles, California 2023)

Paso Robles Cab is a reliable crowd-pleaser, but it's also the most predictable thing on a list that's otherwise trying hard to be interesting. In a room with Nebbiolo and Carignan on offer, ordering this is like skipping the menu and asking for a burger.

🍽️Perfect Pairing

Lioco 'Indica' Carignan/Valdigue (Mendocino, California 2023) + Wood-fired chicken

Lioco's Indica is a low-intervention, juicy red with enough acidity and grip to stand up to smoke and char without overpowering a lighter protein. The earthy, fruit-forward profile of Carignan-Valdigue is basically built for fire-kissed chicken.

🎲 The Bottom Line

Death & Taxes earns its Wild Card badge — it's a fire-cooking restaurant with a wine list that's actually trying, and that's rarer than it should be. The pricing isn't a bargain, but the selection is thoughtful enough that we'd steer a friend straight to the glass pours and tell them to order something they've never heard of.

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