Davio's Northern Italian Steakhouse

Three hundred and sixty-three labels. That number lands like a Brunello at a Wednesday dinner — serious, a little intimidating, and hard to ignore. The list skews Italian and Californian, which makes perfect sense for an upscale steakhouse that bills itself as Northern Italian, and the depth on both fronts is genuinely impressive.

Tuscany and Napa are the twin anchors here, and they hold. You've got Gaja's Pieve Santa Restituta Brunello in magnum, Opus One in a 3-liter format if you're feeling theatrical, and a solid mid-tier Chablis Grand Cru from Domaine Vocoret et Fils for the table that actually wants to eat food with their wine. The Champagne selection hits the expected luxury notes — Krug Brut Rosé, Veuve Clicquot — without venturing anywhere adventurous. What's missing is any meaningful Old World depth outside of Italy; there's no serious Burgundy rabbit hole to fall into, no Rhône worth getting excited about, and the by-the-glass options won't surprise anyone who's been to a nice steakhouse before. Still, for the restaurant's identity, the list delivers.

Eighteen pours, priced $12–$20, covering the expected steakhouse bases — a Cabernet, a Chardonnay, something sparkling. It's a functional program that won't embarrass anyone, but there's no real rotating energy here; this feels like a list that gets reviewed once a year and left alone. If you're drinking by the glass, manage your expectations accordingly.