Commission Row
Steakhouse wine list that actually did its homework
Downtown · Indianapolis · Steakhouse, Seafood, Raw Bar · Visit Website ↗
Reviewed March 22, 2026
Wingman Metrics
First Impression
Commission Row walks in wearing a suit that fits — not flashy, but clearly put together with intention. The list lands somewhere between 100 and 150 bottles, which is the sweet spot for a downtown steakhouse that wants to be taken seriously without overwhelming a table that just wants to order a Cab and get on with dinner. There's a sommelier on staff, and you can feel that in the curation.
Selection Deep Dive
The geographic spread is genuinely respectable: Mosel Riesling, Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, Rhône Syrah, and a Brunello di Montalcino all sharing the same list with Napa heavyweights like Duckhorn. That's a lot of ground covered without feeling like a random grab bag. The J. Chave 'Silene' Crozes-Hermitage is the kind of choice that signals someone with a real palate is behind this — it's not the obvious Rhône pick, and that's the point. Gaps exist in Spain and South America, and if you're hunting for Burgundy or Barolo, you'll come up short, but for Indianapolis, this clears the bar comfortably.
By the Glass
Twenty to thirty by-the-glass options is a serious program — most steakhouses phone it in with eight pours and call it done. Commission Row spreads the glass list across whites, reds, and multiple price tiers from $12 to $30, so there's a real entry point for every table. We'd love to see the BTG list rotate more aggressively, but what's there is well-chosen.
Bedrock Wine Company Zinfandel 'Old Vine' 2022 — $15
Fifteen dollars for Bedrock Old Vine Zin is a genuine steal. This is a California heritage Zinfandel from one of the state's most respected producers, and at this price point you'd be hard-pressed to find a better glass to put next to a NY Strip.
J. Chave 'Silene' Crozes-Hermitage Syrah 2023
Most tables ordering Syrah in a steakhouse don't think past California, but Jean-Louis Chave's entry-level Rhône bottling punches well above its tier. Smoky, meaty, and structured — it's basically designed for this menu, and most people will walk right past it for the Duckhorn.
Duckhorn Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2021
At $30 a glass it's technically the most expensive pour on the list, and Duckhorn is perfectly fine wine — but it's also the most predictable, most-available bottle in the country. You can get this at any airport wine bar. The Chave or the Bedrock are more interesting at a fraction of the price.
Von Schleinitz Dry Riesling 2021 + Crab Cake
Mosel Riesling and a well-made crab cake is one of those combinations that doesn't need defending. The Von Schleinitz is bone dry with bright acidity and a flinty mineral edge that cuts through the richness of the crab without bullying it. At $12 a glass, it's also the smartest money you'll spend at this table.
✔️ The Bottom Line
Commission Row is doing real work on its wine program in a city where steakhouses routinely mail it in with twelve bottles and a wine-by-the-glass list that stops at Meiomi. The markup is fair, the sommelier is present, and there are legitimate discoveries hiding between the Duckhorn and the Duckhorn. Send a friend — just steer them away from the obvious choices.
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