Cinder House

You're on the 8th floor of a Four Seasons looking at the Gateway Arch — so yes, the setting does a lot of heavy lifting before you even open the list. The wine program is polished and handled with care, but don't expect to be surprised. This is hotel-restaurant wine done competently, not adventurously.

The 150-250 bottle list leans hard on Australia and California, which is a strange pairing for a Brazilian wood-fire concept — you'd expect more South American representation given the kitchen's identity. Barossa shows up in force with Torbreck and Seppeltsfield carrying the Australian side, while the California contingent is dominated by Napa Cabernet in the $100+ range. The gaps are noticeable: minimal South American wine for a restaurant serving feijoada, and no real Old World depth to speak of. It's a list that plays to hotel guests who know what they like, not to wine lovers who want to explore.

Twelve options by the glass isn't bad, running from $13 on the low end to $45 at the top, with a reasonable range of styles represented. The Sun Goddess Pinot Grigio Ramato is the most interesting pour on the BTG list — it's the one that signals someone actually thought about this. The rest reads like a safe rotation that hasn't changed much recently.