Columbus's Italian wine obsession hiding in plain sight
German Village · Columbus · Italian · Visit Website ↗
Reviewed April 21, 2026
Wingman Metrics
You walk into Cento expecting a nice neighborhood Italian spot and you get ambushed — in the best way — by a wine list that could hold its own in a major market. This is not the Chianti-and-Pinot-Grigio laminated card you were bracing for. Somebody here cares deeply about Italian wine, and it shows immediately.
The list runs 150-250 bottles and stays almost entirely Italian, which sounds limiting until you realize Italy has more grape varieties than most countries have zip codes. Barolo alone earns its own serious section, with Giacomo Conterno and Bruno Giacosa representing the old-guard traditionalist side of the Langhe. Brunello di Montalcino gets proper treatment with Biondi-Santi and Casanova di Neri on the same list — a flex most Italian restaurants in a mid-market city wouldn't attempt. Super Tuscans like Sassicaia and Ornellaia round things out at the top end, while Chianti Classico Riserva from Antinori and Fonterutoli gives you something to drink without taking out a second mortgage.
Twenty to thirty-five options by the glass is a serious commitment — that's not a wine list, that's a program. We'd expect to find Vermentino and Greco di Tufo pouring alongside some of the Chianti Classico and possibly rotating red picks, giving the table a real chance to explore without committing to a bottle. That said, we don't have confirmed rotation data, so treat the glass selection as a strong starting point rather than a guaranteed adventure.
Chianti Classico Riserva — Fonterutoli — $40–$70 range
Fonterutoli consistently punches above its price in the Chianti Classico Riserva tier — structured, age-worthy, and genuinely exciting with the kind of food Cento serves. It's the move when you want something that feels serious without the Barolo price tag.
Greco di Tufo
Most tables walk past the white section straight to the big reds, but Greco di Tufo is the sleeper here. It has the texture and grip to handle rich pasta and antipasti and it's rarely seen on Columbus wine lists. Order it and feel slightly superior to everyone else in the room.
Sassicaia
Look, it's great wine — we're not disputing that. But Sassicaia is the most recognized Super Tuscan name on the planet, which means restaurants price it accordingly. You'll pay a significant premium for the label recognition here when Ornellaia or one of the Chianti Classico Riserva bottles will give you a more honest drinking experience for the money.
Brunello di Montalcino — Casanova di Neri + Osso buco
Casanova di Neri's Brunello has the dark fruit depth and acidity to cut through the richness of braised veal shank without bullying the dish. It's a classic Tuscan match — slow-cooked meat, earthy wine, everyone at the table suddenly very quiet.
🎲 The Bottom Line
Cento is the rare Columbus restaurant where the wine list is a genuine reason to go, not just a footnote to the pasta. Matthew Selva's Italian-focused program earned its Wine Spectator nod honestly — send your wine-curious friends here without hesitation.
One wine list review, one adventure pick, one quick tip, and a personal note. Every week. Under 500 words.